Local Villages - Unspoilt Charm

It can be a powerful sensation to sit quietly anywhere along the cliff tops and look out to sea, pondering the extraordinary adventurers who have passed this way.

They can be found throughout the area, nestling in the hillsides or hugging the shore, with brightly painted fishermen's cottages tumbling down to the sea.

Travelling west from Lagos along the coast you pass by Praia da Luz, which literally translated means Beach of Light, a name given to the village in Moorish times, when beacons were lit to warn fishermen of the approaching danger from the savage Moors.

Now more of a town, Praia da Luz began life as a small fishing village but the popularity of its beach has turned it into a thriving holiday centre with a wide selection of restaurants, bars and shops.

Six kilometres further west is Burgau, a typical Portuguese fishing village which remains relatively unspoilt due, for the most part, to its location in a small cove bound by steep cliffs.

The main road to the beach is fairly narrow and there is limited parking, so visitors are advised to leave their cars at the top end of the village and walk down. On the way, you will pass many old fishing cottages, whitewashed with their bright "platibandas", colourful borders painted around the windows and edges of walls.

Continuing on the main road from Lagos to Sagres, opposite Parque da Floresta there's a turning which leads down to Salema, a picturesque fishing village that has managed to retain its character and charm. The beach is long and sandy, but is nearly completely covered at high tide.

Much of the recent developments have taken place on the hillsides and cliffs to the right of the beach, but the streets of old Salema are to the left and well worth wandering through.

People are drawn here because it remains a "working" village with fishing boats going out every day. Restaurateurs and local residents buy their fish direct from the boats, so the landing of the catch is a very important time of day which always attracts a crowd.

Salema has an easy-going atmosphere with an assortment of bars, restaurants and shops.

Travelling north from Parque da Floresta leads to Aljezur, a striking riverside village with two distinct halves - one Moorish, below a ruined 10th Century hilltop castle and the other called Igreja Nova, a more modern settlement.

Aljezur is close to some great surfing beaches, notably Praia da Arrifana, a protected bay with some big north-west swells and Praia de Monte Clerigo about eight kilometres north-west.

Head east from here to the bustling market town of Monchique, cloaked in densely wooded hills. Wander through the town's narrow old streets and discover the peace, seclusion and local life of a different Algarve.

The Igreja Matriz is the most notable piece of architecture, thanks to an extraordinary Manueline porch decorated with twisted columns looking like lengths of knotted rope.

Further uphill is the ruined Franciscan monastery of Nossa Senhora do Desterro, built in 1832. From below, the monstery's empty shell looks sad and spooky, but its hilltop position offers great views of the town and surrounding hills.

Eight kilometres west from Monchique is Foia peak, the Algarve's highest point at 909 metres.

Along the road, which climbs through Eucalyptus and Pines, is a string of restaurants specialising in traditional barbecued, spicey chicken piri-piri. Once at the peak you can enjoy panoramic views, which on a clear day, can reach into the corners of the Algarve.

The snug hamlet of Caldas de Monchique, at the head of a valley six kilometres south of Monchique, has been a popular spa for more than 2,000 years.

It was loved by the Romans for its hot, slightly sulphurous waters, which are said to be good for rheumatism, backache, asthma and other ailments.

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